museums and prostitutes . . .

page three

Italy: 01-02-00
Museum Day! Palazzo Pitti for Renaissance and the most opulent and glamorous rooms I've ever seen. Salon Verde and the Queens bedroom are my favorite by far. My own Queens bedroom at home will be getting a new window treatment when I return.

Gorgeous chandeliers in the apartments of the Pitti Palace, five or six per room! Also viewed an art show of paintings by Edvard Munch, always a favorite. Here also is a large painting of St. Sebastion, who in my opinion, is the sexiest of all the saints.

Museum de Academie
David is the main attraction here - and he is quite spectacular up close, if a bit *ahem*unimpressive for a man of his stature. The rest of the museum is devoted to Byzantine art, which for my secular Pagan self, is not quite to my taste.

2:15 PM
acqua minerale con gaz
salami foccia
Note to self:
I love cappuccino.

3:45 PM
back at Il Rifrullo for a cappuccino after shopping unsuccesfully for (oh my aching feet!) shoes. Found 2 beautiful scarves, though, for L.60,000 - bonus! One sort of scarf/poncho affair and two "silk" disguised as polyester. Really hoping to find an Internet cafe so I can really check email - I must have dozens of emails by now.

Neenah Cherry playing - more musique Americano.

8:10PM
Osteria Caffe Italiano
vino bianco: Vigne del Mandorlo
Fattoria Montellori
Dinner:
risotto with pecorino de Siena with mint and stewed rabbit with greens
biscotti with vin santo

Massimo (right), bartender extraordinaire, at Il Rifrullo, with another of the great bartenders at my, now favorite bar/restaurant in Firenze!

I've closed Il Rifrillo.
tomorrow - train to Milano

Italy: 01-03-00
Villas! R&T have the ultimate plan - take the city bus up into the hills, and peek into the fences around the huge villas outside Firenze. Its spectacular - huge houses, some with their own olive groves. I decide my life would be more economical if I had a villa. Id have an olive grove, vegetable garden and lots of chickens, rabbits and veal . . . oops . . . running around as free range food. Imagine the savings! I could be happy with a small villa - say 5 - 6 bedrooms or so. Imagine the opulence, tassels, fringe and window treatments! A villa is definitely what I need.

Note to self:
Begin villa plan
collect tassels and fringe
design/sew window treatments

Shopping
marble paper books
2 pairs black pants

Graffitti in Polly Magus:
Take your hatred out on me
make your victim my head
you never ever believed in me
i am your tornquet

Italy: 01-04-00
Up at 07.00 (painful) - I say "Ciao!" to Richard, who is barefoot in the street. Im slightly hung over from Massimos generosity with the vino Russo - my arriverderci drink at Il Rifullo - Ill miss that place!

Uneventful train ride. I fall asleep.

Hotel Emilia, Rs friend Woodys suggestion, is perfect. Two stars - my kind of place! While I sit in the lobby waiting for my room, a woman who I suspect is a prostitute pops in to check on a room. Shes beautiful - a fellow freelancer!

01:00
On my own in Milano is where i really start to struggle with the language. Its a good thing I love salami.

Note to self:
Learn Italian.

15:15
Mmmm . . . Cappuccino. It always seems easier to locate the expensivo shopping. While comparison shopping at Louis Vuitton, I discover my fake Louie bag is an identical copy - the tiny lock and key is actually a bit nicer! Milan is a spectacular city, full of skinny, well - dressed citizens. No one is dowdy or overweight - even the poliza appear to be models. I do a lot of smiling at the cops - a welcome change from Chicagos donut eaters.

Note to self:
Learn how to make risotto.

Now time to wander. I take the subway to the Duomo. Predictably spectacular. Italians are obsessed with beauty - every shop window is opulent - lots of cool gilt glassware and over the top table settings.

21.45
After a blissfull hot shower, thourough booty cleansing (nothing provokes happiness like a clean hoo-hah here in the land of bidets) and organizing my bags, i become obsessed with Italian TV. This game show - identifying American music is completely hot. Beautiful babes in skintight, sequined see-through dresses dance, sing, play instruments and read Tarot cards dressed as a mermaid. I see no trumpet OR conga drum player in the band - theres my new career! YES!!! SI! Bellissimo! I'm feeling so happy, i decide Ill take my own sweet self on a dinner date. I even apply makeup.

Now I'm at "le Chalet" for dinner, solo. Salade misto, vino bianco and a Calabrese pizza - tuna, anchovies, black olives and capers - no cheese. Inexplicably, the anchovies make my lips swell up. I'm wearing my new white wool sweater, black nylon twill pants from Stephanel and my new Bata shoes. The waiter tells me I am "very beautiful" - I'm in heaven. The waiter smiles at my feeble attempts to speak Italian - at least I can order food successfully.

Except that I'm still having an allergic reaction to the damn anchovies. Everybody is smoking, but still, they look fabulous. A man comes in with a cute white dog which i immediately start petting. I wish they allowed dogs in restaurants in the US, it really adds to the dining to be able to pet a cute little mutt.

Note to self
I want to live here. I could be so happy. But I'd need a villa with apartments for all my friends to visit, 5-6 bedrooms ought to be sufficient.

There are a few Americanos here, but I'm passing. I'm Italian now. I'm certain to be insufferable when i return home.

Earlier, I visited a Farmacia, and loaded up on Euro skin care products. I must say though, the farmacias here are not as much fun as those in Venezuela.

I also bought the most beautiful pair of brown leather pants.

35,000 lire for dinner. I'd put out for me! I had a fabulous time.

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